It's something every lash artist dreads hearing: "My lashes aren't lasting." Whether you're new to the industry or a seasoned pro, retention issues can feel frustrating and personal. But here's the truth, lash retention isn't about one magic product or trick. It's about your entire system, from prep to aftercare.
Good retention keeps clients happy, fills your books, and builds your reputation through word-of-mouth referrals. Poor retention leads to complaints, refund requests, and lost clients. Let's break down exactly how to keep those lashes lasting.
What Is Lash Retention?
Lash retention refers to how long extensions stay attached to the natural lash before shedding. Most clients expect at least two to three weeks of solid retention between fills. Anything less usually signals that something in your process needs adjusting.
Prep and Prime: Retention Starts Before the First Lash
The foundation of great retention is a clean surface. If there's any trace of oil, makeup, or residue on the natural lashes, your adhesive simply won't bond properly.
Start every appointment by deep cleaning the lashes with a lash-specific cleanser. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely, any leftover moisture can compromise the bond. For clients with particularly oily lashes or stubborn residue, a second cleanse with a no-rinse formula can make a real difference.
When it comes to primer, less is often more. Primers work well for oily or slippery lashes, but they can dehydrate dry or brittle lashes if overused. Use primer only when necessary, and never skip the cleaning step thinking primer will do the work for you.
Choosing and Storing Your Adhesive
Your lash adhesive is only as good as how you use and store it. One of the biggest retention killers is using a glue that doesn't match your working speed. If the adhesive dries before you place the extension, the bond will be weak from the start.
If you're a beginner or returning after a break, stick with a slower-curing adhesive (three to four second dry time) until your speed picks back up. You'll know you're ready for faster glue when you find yourself holding lashes in place longer than necessary.
Room conditions matter too. Most adhesives perform best between 64–75°F and 40–60% humidity. Even small deviations can change how your glue behaves. Invest in a reliable hygrometer to monitor your space, and adjust with a humidifier or dehumidifier as needed.
For storage, keep your adhesive upright in an airtight container, never in the fridge, which causes condensation and breaks down the formula. Write the open date on the bottle and replace it every four to six weeks.
Looking for an adhesive that delivers consistent, long-lasting retention? Check out our guide to the most common questions we get about HoneyBe Lash Adhesive. It covers why so many lash artists trust HoneyBe for reliable bonds, flexible dry times, and performance across different humidity levels.
Check out our Eyelash Extension Glue Guide for more information on eyelash adhesives and proper care.
Application Technique
Even with perfect prep and fresh adhesive, poor application will sabotage retention.
Focus on three things: isolation, attachment, and weight. Isolate each natural lash completely before applying an extension, stickies cause pain, pulling, and early fallout. When you attach the extension, make sure you're bonding at least 2mm onto the natural lash, not just the tip. The base should sit flush with no gaps or lifting.
Finally, match the extension weight to what the natural lash can support. Extensions that are too long or heavy will shed prematurely, no matter how good your technique is.
Understanding the Natural Lash Cycle
Here's something that can save you a lot of stress: some lash shedding is completely normal and has nothing to do with your work.
Natural lashes grow in three phases. During the anagen (growth) phase, which lasts about 30 to 45 days, the lash is firmly attached and extensions tend to last well. The catagen (transition) phase lasts two to three weeks as the follicle shrinks. Finally, the telogen (resting) phase can last up to 100 days before the lash naturally falls out.
This means clients may notice small gaps even with flawless application, it's just biology. Educating your clients about this cycle builds trust and helps manage their expectations.
Client Factors and Aftercare
Retention is a two-way street. Even your best work can't survive poor aftercare.
During the consultation, ask clients about their skin type, lifestyle, and daily routine. Oily skin, frequent workouts, swimming, and steam exposure all accelerate lash fallout. So do oil-based skincare products, waterproof mascara, and sleeping face-down.
Make aftercare education part of every appointment. Make sure clients know they they need to clean their lashes daily with an oil-free cleanser. Many clients are afraid to get their lashes wet, but daily cleaning actually improves retention.
Provide a printed or digital aftercare card, and say the key points out loud. Some clients won't read it otherwise.
Ingredients Clients Should Avoid
Certain ingredients break down lash adhesive faster than others. The obvious one is oil in any form, but watch out for glycerin (a plant-based fat common in skincare), dimethicone (a silicone that coats lashes and blocks bonding), and active ingredients like retinol or glycolic acid that can migrate to the lash line.
Remind clients that "oil-free" labels aren't always accurate. When in doubt, check the full ingredient list.
When Retention Issues Persist
If you're doing everything right and still seeing problems, start tracking. Keep notes on each client: room conditions, adhesive used, lash type, prep routine, and their aftercare habits. Patterns often emerge that point to the real issue.
Sometimes it's not your technique at all, it's the client's natural lash cycle, a new medication, hormonal changes, or aftercare they're not following. Having that conversation openly builds trust and protects your reputation.
Final Thoughts
Great lash retention isn't about finding one perfect product. It's about building a consistent system: thorough prep, the right adhesive for your speed and environment, precise application, and client education that extends your work beyond the lash room.
Track your results, adjust when needed, and keep learning. The artists who master retention are the ones who stay booked and build loyal clientele for years to come.